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The annual hellobali Chef Wars is always a treat to set up, not only because the menus concocted by the participating chefs are a mouth-watering fantasy to escape to when stuck in a neon-lit sombre cubicle in the editorial office, but also because, in my experience, chefs are interesting, colourful personalities that entice the psyche and taste buds alike. This year’s winner by public voting is chef Mandif Membramo of Ju-Ma-Na at Banyan Tree Ungasan with his imaginary six-course dinner menu containing black pudding and sardine cartilage among other delicacies. 

For my visit to his “battleground” at Ju-Ma-na, chef Mandif turns imagination to realisation, serving the exact items on the menu that he submitted down to a t. This, to me, comes as a surprise because rarely do these chefs actually serve what they dream up – after all, the challenge was an imaginary one and some of the ingredients and dishes are sometimes so outlandish that it would take proper time and effort to actually materialise them. “Do you think I make up menus without actually having the ability to cook the dishes? That’s absurd,” Mandif retorts. Touché.

Having just returned from a trip to Jakarta to shoot an episode of the final round of reality show “MasterChef Indonesia” (airing in August on RCTI), in which Mandif is a guest judge, he shares his thoughts on today’s amateur Indonesian chefs. “The culinary trend in Indonesia has hit a milestone, so many changes [are happening], now it is a lifestyle. I’m very proud to be a part of “MasterChef” where I have seen so much enthusiasm for the culinary industry from many generations. Indonesian chefs are sprouting, diminishing the demand for expatriate chefs. I believe that such a TV programme will inspire young Indonesians to become professional chefs or entrepreneurs in the culinary industry in their home country and abroad. I can’t wait to see the first Michelin starred restaurant in Indonesia.”

Chef Mandif has much pride for his home country of Indonesia although Ju-Ma-Na is the first kitchen in Indonesia to have been graced by his mastery – previously he has tickled the taste buds of patrons in the Netherlands, the UAE, France, and many other countries, but never in Indonesia. His love for Indonesia is reflected in his prize-winning dinner menu, implementing traditional dishes and giving them a fresh twist.

The chef is an energetic, down-to-earth fellow with a knack for the simpler things in food and a brimming passion for flavours and innovation. Watching him move swiftly while commanding his team of cooks in Ju-Ma-Na’s open kitchen, I can tell that this sprightly chef has a no-nonsense approach to food, that it is genuinely about the taste, not the frills and thrills of cuisine.

Mandif is meticulous about details, as can be seen in his main course: wagyu short ribs on a bed of chicken feet porridge, in which the meat and the porridge has the same consistency. “The flavours are different but the texture needs to blend in seamlessly so that when you put it in your mouth, all you can taste is the melange of flavours without being distracted by the contrast of consistency,” Mandif explains when I express my childish giddiness of tasting a literal melt-in-my-mouth meat. But, personally speaking, the wagyu is not what stirs me up the most. It is the black pudding made of pig’s blood that excites me.

I like to call myself an adventurous eater, but it is not the notion of blood that is exhilarating; rather, it is the fact that the dish is – pardon the pun – so bloody delicious. The black pudding has the same viscosity as foie gras, with a very thin membranous layer of crust on the outside and a savoury, spicy taste, which blends in well with the corn and pork belly rillet and the tangy flavour of the masaman sauce. “It is my favourite dish on the menu too,” the chef enthuses. “Actually, after a successful attempt at cooking the black pudding and liking it so much, I tried to get this item on the breakfast menu, but to no avail [laughs]. I wonder why. Remember, it’s 62 degrees [Celsius] for eight hours, that’s the secret. Not 80 degrees! No!” Well, obviously. That would be a bloody travesty, wouldn’t it?

But this hellobali battle for the culinary throne that Mandif Membramo has deservedly won is nothing compared to the most difficult battle he has encountered in the kitchen; one with a fish: “I was a guest chef in the Netherlands preparing a degustation menu for 30 people in a Michelin starred restaurant. I wanted to use catfish in one of my dishes so I asked to be provided with the freshest fish available. They gave me a live one; it was gigantic! Nearly a metre in length and very thick. It took me two hours to kill it! Even after two hours of battle and having finally succeeded in cutting off its head, the headless fish kept squirming in my hands. Never again! But it was quite delicious,” Mandif laughs in a triumphant tone, like Captain Ahab who has captured his Moby Dick before cooking a scrumptious fillet for dinner.

mandif membramo’s cooking tips

•Stick to things you like in making the menu. It is better to use popular recipes than try out new recipes.
•Follow a checklist during shopping and preparation.
•Always use the best and freshest ingredients possible.
•Prioritise the most time-consuming dishes in preparation.
•Cook with just the right time, texture, and temperature.
•Use large cuts of fish or meat for a small party, so you can avoid overcooking.
•Always use correct seasoning and complementary condiments.
•Focus on certain flavours that don’t overwhelm the main ingredients. Keep them harmonious.
•Use the right sauces and garnishes to complement the main ingredients.
•Prepare a nice, simple dessert to close the meal: there’s no need to be overly sophisticated.