text by frankie miller - image by foued kadachi

The world is full of strange and wondrous things and sometimes the inexplicable becomes accepted when we let go of our need to intellectualise things. So it is with shaking. A luminous hi-caste Balinese guru, Ratu Bagus, has built an ashram in the foothills of Mt. Agung that followers have helped to establish on the world circuit.

It is now three decades since The Oberoi (Jl Oberoi, T: 0361 730 361), Bali, heralded the beginning of luxury tourism in Seminyak. Resting within the beachside garden of this gorgeous hotel is a romantic restaurant called Kura Kura – a breezy thatched pavilion surrounded by lotus ponds in a setting that truly encapsulates the mystique and enchantment of the island. Here diners are serenaded by the cheery 'Angklung' music of a bamboo orchestra from Negara in West Bali, combined with the rhythmic accompaniment of the waves crashing upon the shore.

We had picked a stormy night to visit Kura Kura, but that had done nothing to dampen the spirit of the Angklung musicians, while the rain beating against the folding glass doors of the restaurant merely served to heighten the atmospheric experience.

Executive Chef Enrico Wahl is a perfectionist. His concept is fresh ingredients, enhanced by layers of taste, plenty of variety, and an imaginative presentation. He orchestrates his 11-course tasting menu like a symphony, building flavours to a dramatic crescendo. Following a discussion earlier in the day about our preferences, we were led to a table where we waited for the concerto to begin.

A glass of Champagne proved to be a very pleasing aperitif, and we even asked Enrico to select the wines, which we knew he would expertly match with the cuisine.

The culinary music began quietly; but from the moment we were served with our first taster, a shot of mushroom cappuccino with espresso, we were mesmerised. With a leaning towards anything remotely sensuous and aphrodisiac in quality, we leapt upon our Kumamoto oysters – one truffle gratinated, and the other presented Thai style with crispy shallots and micro mizuna. Indeed, these sexy, mood-enhancing molluscs slipped down way too easily. Next, a warm salad alternated tender rings of octopus with pork cheek confit and pickled bell peppers, and the tastes just sang from our plates, building in intensity as the menu progressed. The marble of foie gras with apricot amber inclusions, for example, featured a spherical apricot "sunny side up" playfully surrounded by a ring of white emulsion like a miniature fried egg.

Exquisite morsels continued to be delivered to our table in a sequence of glorious colours and complex oral sensations. The tandoor baked yabbie, smoked yogurt and sambal spiced tomato biscuit encompassed textural contrasts that pushed the very architecture of the ingredients themselves. The port wine poached barramundi pre salé, cauliflower flan, tempura and shellfish cloud eased the transition through the rich textures of the gastronomic performance.

The service at Kura Kura, as always, was executed with laser precision, while the proficiently paired wines, including Kim Crawford 2008 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, and the Californian Ridge Geyserville 2003, complemented the food with yet more tiers of flavour. The Mon's cave aged cheese selection was outstanding, in particular the Compte, and the desserts of cinnamon mousse and green tea gellee, strawberry clafoutis' and truffle crème brûlée were delectable. Finally, a glass of golden Cognac provided the perfect conclusion to our gustatory journey.