text by James Carys - image by Foued Kadachi

Ask almost any seasoned dining veteran on the island, expatriate or visitor, which restaurant has one of the best beach views and the answer will, invariably, be Gado Gado.

The restaurant has been a fixture on many a visitor's 'to do' lists whilst on vacation in Seminyak since it relaunched itself several years ago as a 'fine dining' eatery, immediately proving itself as an incredibly popular sundown dining destination.

Then it all went wrong. The kitchen command changed hands, the menu strayed into foolishly ambitious territories and the once loyal crowd collectively voted with their feet.

Gado Gado (Seminyak, T: 0361 736 448) was but a memory, albeit a fond one. Then lately murmurings have started to surface about a return to form for the place and after the umpteenth recommendation from trusted sources it was all eyes back on downtown Seminyak.

The first noticeable improvement is the level of service: polite, unobtrusive and attentive – gone are the days of the wait staff here crowding your table - one is left alone to peruse the lengthy wine list and soak up the post sunset beach vibe. The menu has been taken down a notch or two with far less scope than previously but, as restaurants in Bali go, more focus and less choice tends to suggest higher quality all round. From the entrée selection the foie gras terrine with vanilla, fig compote, herb salad and toasted brioche is palatable but nowhere near as rewarding as the excellent ceviche of fresh sea bass with fresh herbs and a sour dough crumble – a dish that is unusual, highly original and rewarding, full marks.

The choice of mains is split into two categories (fish and poultry) and is no more complicated than the variety of entrées on offer. A token nod is cast at any visiting vegetarians with just one main course being available – a semolina gnocchi with marinate artichoke, morel mushrooms and creamy goats cheese sauce. Quite why the chefs bother including a vegetarian option at all is a mystery if all they can muster from their assembled knowledge is one dish but this bodes well for meat lovers. As anyone who has ever worked in a kitchen that strives to take itself seriously knows – vegetarian diners are regarded with only the highest contempt.

The roasted duck breast with red cabbage, caramelized apple, pommes salardaise and cumin jus could easily have been a disaster but arrives at the table in pristine condition. The duck breast perfectly pink and tender, the cumin jus bringing the dish to life and matched exquisitely to a recommended Pinot Noir on the advice of the staff.

If duck isn't your game the salmon confit with braised lettuce and tarragon vinaigrette is a good option, and once again, help is on hand from the Sommelier for a suggested pairing.

Dessert is a short lived affair with an excellent vanilla infused crème brulee rounding off an impressive return to form for the team at Gado Gado. Once the head scratching about how to keep the vegetarian faction happy is resolved and the rather unfitting music policy (elevator opera just does not work here) is addressed Gado Gado may just have a winning formula back on its hands once again.