text by James Carys

So much has changed in such a short time on the cliffs of Bali, more specifically the skyline around the Uluwatu area. The normally arid and dusty Bukit Peninsula is slowly being dubbed ‘millionaire's row' by anyone and everyone associated with the real estate development industry on the island, and the reason is apparently clear when you set foot in the two existing properties open for business and welcoming the well heeled to a whole new plateau of living and dining in Bali. This year it is the turn of Karma Kandara and their show stopping restaurant, Di Mare.

Bvlgari threw open their drapes and welcomed the world in September 2006 and after the buzz died down the bulldozers moved in on the surrounding hectares. There's now some fifteen major resort and villa developments under construction, linking the holy Pura Uluwatu on the western tip to the eastern point of Nusa Dua and the Nikko Hotel on the pretty white beaches of Sawangan.

The second resort to recently begin operating after a lengthy construction period is Karma Kandara (Uluwatu, T: 0361 847 5475), more spacious accommodation than Bvlgari and with arguably a better view from their lead restaurant Di Mare - and Executive Chef Raymond Saja is very happy to be here.

After having helmed the successful Di Mare at the Karma Jimbaran resort (now renamed Red Square) Raymond feels more at home than ever towering on the edge of the Bali universe atop the Uluwatu skyline. "The setting of Di Mare at Kandara finally pulls the whole Mediterranean concept of Di Mare together," he beams. "The Mediterranean influence runs through the whole resort, from the architectural planning of the villas, pathways and garden setting to the menu I'm running in the restaurants." Kandara sports two of the most original restaurant settings on the island, Nammos being a private beach club at the base of the cliffs serving a fresh selection of ocean fare and some very gourmet pizza offerings, "you have to try the Prosciutto, Fig, Gorgonzola and Ruccola," lets on Raymond. Then we have Di Mare, a million dollar dining venue with views that defy belief.

Where Bvlgari tucked Sangkar behind granite blocks and their flagship Il Ristorante even further back behind their lily pond , Di Mare perches you right on the edge. Those with any trace element of vertigo in their constitution need not apply. The restaurant seats eighty with extra tables available down by the pool and along the cliff edge itself, perfectly set for arguably the most stunning dinner date location on the island.

Down to business on the menu and the standout amongst the selection of starters is the Citrus-Cured Tasmanian Salmon Tartare. Cured with thyme, dill and lemon zest for just long enough to allow the flavours to permeate the tender flesh of the salmon.

When tasted there's just enough flavour to bring out the natural sea taste of the salmon without overpowering the delicate fish. The thin layer of soya mousse adds solidity to the dish and served with a light broth orange and basil broth is a colourful treat not only to the palate but also the eye.

The other highly recommended starter is the simplistic, yet rewarding Watermelon Carpaccio (pictured). It is the perfect accompaniment to the location and atmosphere of Di Mare - light, clean and refreshing in equal measures. The partnering of the cucumber and goats cheese works very well together, the watermelon sharing similar characteristics to the cucumber whilst the aged goats cheese is mixed with milk and gelatin to remove its sometimes overwhelming density. Moving onto the main course dishes the Capellini Alla Chitarra (guitar string pasta is the translation in Italian) is a complicated sounding but actually very uncomplicated combination of jumbo green crab, garlic chives and Ricci di Mare, otherwise known as sea urchin. "Most people are put off if they spot Sea Urchin on a menu," confides Raymond, "I guess we disguise it a bit by using the Italian translation, the sea urchin is broken up and tossed in at the last moment to add a briny depth to the dish – the purity of the ocean."

The Moroccan Spiced Ahi Tuna is a Middle Eastern inspired dish, encrusted in spices, with French Lentils du Puy, a lemon confit and arugula it screams eastern delight. The Pan roasted Grouper (also pictured) is served with imported Spanish chorizo that is the best available. Manila clams and soy bean Succotash (a dish primarily consisting of lima beans, corn, fresh cream and butter and was, I later discover, a staple diet of those that endured the Great Depression in the United States).

For those requiring red meat reassurance, a Wagyu Sirloin with Portobello Mushrooms, Spinach, Gorgonzola and Israeli Couscous exists alongside the more adventurous main course offerings, a popular inclusion from the previous Di Mare menu in Jimbaran.

New inclusions for dessert include apple in a variety of different guises. Consisting of apple confit, sorbet, chip, consommé and oil (the oil is almost like a syrup, reduced slowly, keeping it from caramelizing presenting a very distinct and strong apple flavouring). The Valhorna chocolate soufflé with sweet and sour cherries and homemade pistachio ice cream is delightful for those demanding a cocoa based sweet whilst those of a savoury persuasion can rest easy as Raymond plans to launch a trilogy of blue vein cheeses in the forthcoming months. A Gorgonzola Soufflé with pears and caramelized walnuts, a terrine of poached pears and stilton and a trifle of Roquefort mousse, pear chutney and walnut tuile awaits summertime diners. After such a meal the prospect of chugging along the winding and extremely bumpy Bukit country lanes may not exactly fill visitors with much desire to head home. Visitors are left with two choices in such circumstances, either prepare to do some damage to the credit card by booking a villa or head upstairs to the rooftop Temple Lounge, a sublime post dinner spot to relax in under the stars. With large comfy sofas, sheesha pipes, a relaxed music policy and oversized pillows the lounge is open late into the night with its own neo Tapas style menu designed for sharing. Karma Kandara hasn't failed to deliver with the rebirth of Di Mare and may just have the most beautifully located restaurant on the island in its midst