Text & Photos by Tokay

Until a few years ago, the rule for eating vegetables in Indonesia was simple: boil it, peel it or forget it. But Bali's international population of foreign visitors and residents has encouraged a movement toward locally produced healthy food. Crisp salads of exotic lettuces, arugula, English spinach, capsicum, sprouts, cauliflower and a cornucopia of other fresh vegetables are no longer rare, often at prices far lower than in the west.

Bali's cool mountains and rich volcanic soil provide fine growing conditions for many fruit and vegetables not usually available in the tropics. An increasing number of chemical-free farms (none of which can yet afford the high costs of official organic certification) now make it possible to eat as wholesomely here as anywhere else in the world. Chemical-free Bali rice, eggs and grass-fed beef round out the menu.

Ibu Kartini, a Balinese academic who has been active in organic growing for many years, encourages the island's farmers to return to traditional food production. Other pioneers of organic produce in Bali are Ben and Blair Ripple, an American couple who started farming in the cool mountains about five years ago on land owned by jewellery designer John Hardy. Their exotic lettuces and other produce were an instant hit with the island's leading 5-star hotels, whose chefs were delighted to be able to consistently offer chemical-free foods for the first time. The business, now called Big Tree Farms, delivers fresh produce to homes, shops and hotels around Bali. Recently the couple started a small but busy farmer's market on Sundays in Sanur

Oded, another American, is the inspiration and sponsor for Sari Organic, a small group of Ubud growers who produce chemical-free vegetables, herbs and rice. About 40 regular clients snap up everything they can grow. "They can't keep up with the demand for fresh produce," Oded reports. "Soon they are going to start offering tomato sauce, pesto, pickles and other processed foods as well. Sari Organic also produces and sells chemical-free soy products such as tofu, tempe, yoghurt, milk and cheese from soy beans they grow themselves."

Bali's leading hotels were the first to feature chemical-free produce on their menus. As availability increased, smaller restaurants began to adapt their menus to reflect this healthier eating style.

"We use organic/chemical free produce whenever possible in all our dishes," says Meghan Pappenheim, creator of Ubud's popular Kafe. "It's wonderful that there is so much available now; it's an inspiration to the chef and also encourages local growers to think organic. It also helps put Ubud on the map as a destination where delicious, chemical-free food is widely available. That's not very common in this part of the world."

A number of young Balinese are watching this trend with interest. With new markets opening up, they're looking at their family's farmland with new eyes. The mulberries that grew on Gede's land in the mountains used to be left for the birds. Now he's found a ready market for all he can pick and deliver to hotels and private homes around Ubud.