Change and Continuity in Balinese Holidays’ Celebration

Text by Darma Putra, Photo by Jill Gocher

Visitors to Bali might have seen beautifully-decorated bamboo poles or penjor erected on road sides in town or villages. That penjor, a symbol of prosperity, is an indication that there is a Bali Hindu ritual being held here. Traffic around that place usually slows down since the road is partly blocked either for ritual space or parking for invited guests.

In the end of this month, however, all Bali will be decorated by penjor marking the festivals of Galungan and Kuningan which falls every 210 days or six months of the Hindu-Bali calendar. The festivals fall ten days apart, Wednesday 29 November and Saturday 9 December. The rangy, graceful bamboo poles, their tips hung with heavy floral decorations are erected a day before Galungan, and remain until after Kuningan.

Town people usually return to their home village to celebrate Galungan so the city centres are very quiet. Visitors can observe the beauty of penjor and Bali's spiritual energy in almost every part of the island in a relaxed atmosphere.

Galungan and Kuningan are a celebration of the victory of good (dharma) over evil (adharma). Origins are myths that date back to 8th century Bali when a demon king known as Bedahulu (a man with an animal's head) demanded that his people pray to him, not to the Gods. He was justly punished for his hubris during an epic ten-day battle. Since the fight between good and evil spirit is universal, the Balinese often interpret the struggle in a modern context, such as the fight to eradicate backwardness, poverty or corruption.

The erecting of penjor throughout the island is a relatively new tradition. A decade ago, in most parts of Bali, penjor were used only for the Great Galungan (Galungan nadi) – which falls on the full moon, (purnama). However, the growing prosperity over the years, much of it generated by tourism, must be properly acknowledged and the relevant religious texts were reinterpreted to state that every Galungan is, in fact, a Galungan nadi. Now the penjor, more elaborate and in greater numbers, are raised every six months making the island look especially magical.

Galungan celebration starts three days in advance, with the preparation of fruit for offerings (panyekeban), baking cakes (penyajan), and slaughtering animals (penampahan). In these busy modern days, most materials and goods are made to order rather than made at home. People simply buy cakes, fruit, and the meat they need for offerings. In the past, even in the cities, say until about two or three decade ago, slaughtering pigs on penampahan day was practiced. A group of families or a banjar would group together to buy one or two pigs to be cut and distributed for their members. Working together to make the traditional meals l Balinese meat salad (lawar), suckling pig, and satay was a unique social activity that marked the commencement of the celebration.

Galungan was always a happy time as people tended to consume many more meals than usual – much like a western Christmas celebration. Galungan day was a much anticipated feasting day. Nowadays, however, as lawar and suckling pig can be easily found in warungs, people do not need to wait that six months for a special feast and can enjoy these festive foods throughout the year. For ritual purpose, people can order lawar and suckling pig, so they do not need to waste time and energy in providing the cuisine. If anything is lost nowadays Galungan and Kuningan it is the communal togetherness and cohesion that reinforces the community's identity with the preparation of food. At the same time, the skill of making Balinese traditional food has shifted from a community skill to a professional cook, and in many areas, it is only the older community members who know how to prepare. In the future it will be less and less of the young generation Bali who know how to make traditional cuisine.

While in the fifties and sixties young people were a bit ashamed of wearing their traditional attire, it is now worn with pride, thanks to tourism and the Bali Arts Festival which have both promoted the beauty and aesthetic quality of Balinese attire and culture. So we can thank tourism to some extent, especially the tour guides and hotel employees who wear it at work, for the rise in popularity. Nowadays, Balinese attire is not only worn for attending ritual and work, but is also a symbol of fashion and status identity. Balinese women's attire can be very expensive and stylish, reflecting their status. Lavish textiles and wraps for men also confer status and rank upon the wearer.

Today a growing number of people are attending religious and spiritual practices. In the past Galungan meant more of a day of wearing new clothes, watching movies, spending time at the beach or mountains, something not done on a normal day. Nowadays, as watching movies can be done any time , leisure time can be enjoyed every weekend. Galungan and Kuningan Days provide a time to focus on religious and spiritual activities, and once again they have become special spiritual days. A symbol of this is the penjor.

The ongoing social and cultural changes of Bali are helping to make these festivals more relevant than ever, helping to reinforce the strong Balinese sense of self and identity.