Text and Photos by Jill Gocher

Sitting on my balcony looking out over the Tjampuhan River Valley I listen to the sounds of crashing coconut fronds as a local tukang cuts young shoots from the tall trees ready to make offerings for an important ceremony. The cool morning air makes it a perfect time for writing while the sounds of a traveling gamelan orchestra heading to a temple filter through the trees.

Ubud on fertile green hills of south central Bali is one of the island's truly special places. It has long been a centre for the arts, since the 1930's when western artists like Walter Spies made it their home and working with local princes and artists, created a strong artistic identity.

Long before the influx of modern villas and fabulous restaurants, NGOs and spiritual seekers, new agers, and yoga types, Ubud was attracting the arty and eccentric. But its "hippie haven" days have long since vanished. Ubud has shed that label and has now become a place full of wonderful things. Restaurants and galleries are abundant and we are just spoiled for choice.

Some of Bali's most beautiful hotels and spas are hidden away in corners outside Ubud's main town. Celebrities and big names come and holiday out of sight of curious eyes, knowing that they can enjoy an exclusive Bali - a cocktail of culture and luxury and a very different experience from the typical bar/ beach/ restaurant/ shopping vacation.

Some of Bali's most beautiful hotels and spas are hidden away in corners outside Ubud's main town. Celebrities and big names come and holiday
out of sight of curious eyes, knowing that they can enjoy an exclusive
Bali - a cocktail of culture and luxury and a very different experience
from the typical bar/ beach/ restaurant/ shopping vacation.

The modern garden style hotel was born in Ubud in the 1930's when German artist Walter Spies was offered land by Tjokorda Gede Sukawati one of Ubud's prominent princes. Spies built a house overlooking the Tjampuhan River which later became Ubud's first tourist Tjampuhan Hotel – Ubud's first tourist hotel. When heiress Barbara Hutton came to stay and demanded a place to swim they created a spring fed pool which is still in use today. The hotel still has one of the most beautiful old established Bali style gardens on the island.

Now fabulous hotels hide in glorious seclusion, all around Ubud, commanding spectacular views and superb locations. Names of the haunts and hideaways of the rich and famous roll sonorously off the tongue. Names like Begawan Giri, Hanging Gardens, Alila Ubud, Chedi Gardens, Maya, Pita Maha, Uma Como Shambala, Kupu Kupu Barong, Puri Kamandalu, The Viceroy, Ibah, Kayu Manis, Four Seasons, Amandari, Kirana, Komang Neka, Waka Namya and Waka di Ume, have all created modern interpretations of the garden tradition, where gorgeous villas nestle in superb garden settings, many with their own pool.

At first glance Ubud seems interesting. The slower pace, the friendly smiles and interesting shops give an impression of ease - of life in a big village. Seminyak visitors are amazed to find people "so natural, so easy" and a relaxed village atmosphere where life just goes on.

The main road, or Jalan Raya is lined with art galleries and there are more to be found in Sayan and Payogan. All kinds of work is on display from "birds by the metre" kind of pictures that you could find at a market to great works. In fact, in artsy Ubud, there is a small gallery in the market!. The owner likes the low rent which allows her to sell some medium standard works for very reasonable prices.

At the other end of the scale are galleries like Komaneka, Rudana Museum and Gallery in Mas and ARMA high end places selling good works. But art works can be found everywhere on every street. It can be fun to just take a walk around and see what is available.

ubud food

My day starts with an excellent ayam betutu at the Ubud market - always a fun place to visit. It is especially so in the morning where traders are ready to give you an excellent "morning price" to bring good luck and open business for the day. Spices, fresh herbs fruit and vegetables not to mention fresh flowers are all piled high on simple stalls in and outside the main building. Sometimes a trader comes from Gianyar bearing armfuls of hand made knives and parang, which he places carefully on a mat just outside the market. Not as fancy as a good German Henkkel, perhaps, but they are hand forged and very serviceable.

Next stop is a steaming capaccino at the newly opened Café Moka, home to
great food, fresh breads and a pleasing meeting place. Later lunch is an array of decisions. Should we meet at Ibu Oka's for a superb plate of "special" babi guling or a more elegant tuna parfait and cool long drink at the stylish Ary's Warung? Or perhaps a nasi campur at Murni's overlooking the river? There is still plenty of time to decide.

Late afternoon is a good time to drop into the Three Monkeys on Jl Hanoman for a coffee and possibly one of the world's best desserts. Their strawberry mint salad comes with a mountain of fresh whipped cream, made special with the slivers of bitter orange and pieces of orange nougat at the bottom of the glass. Another place for afternoon snacks or after a morning yoga session upstairs, is The Café on Jl Hanoman where their organic berry pie, salads and very berry smoothie are just the best.

When we want to eat special Indonesian, it is a treat to visit Warung Enak with specialty dishes from all over the archipelago enjoyed with a cool breezy view over the rice fields.

Dinner is a good time for Terazo where the service is as good as the interesting menu. It is so difficult to pass over the herb encrusted chicken schnitzel with basil mashed potatoes (sometimes everyone at the table has ordered it) but their Italian seafood stew is another treat.Then there is Tropical Bakery where the view and the great glassware complement the fancy menu. Late afternoon is another good time to drop by there for a cocktail or a cake, watching the view as the sun sets behind the rice fields.

Although Ubud seems so far away from the south, it is only in terms of ambience. Actually it is thirty minutes drive from Sanur and fifty minutes from Kuta

Because Ubud is home to so many villages and banjars and revels in a more traditional life, scarcely a day goes by without some ceremony happening somewhere around the town. Traffic stops while a procession of gorgeously clad Balinese walk by accompanied by clashing cymbals and the deep clanging of the big gongs, carried by on some stalwart young shoulders.

When a royal cremation happens, which they do quite often, the streets fill with people and pageantry. Spectacular processions follow the "bukur" down the street and on to the special cremation grounds. You really know that you are in Bali.